Albanian Adventures

Hi everyone,

Well, what a perfect opportunity to write a blog on our recent travels. "Coorabell" is snug in a small fishing port, with the Captain and crew below decks listening to the thunder and heavy rain beating down on the decks. The good news is that the decks need a good cleaning ( more to come on that particular note ) but back to how we managed to get here.

Commencing from where we last left off, the yacht was safely berthed at Gouvia Marina in Corfu, allowing Kath and I to hire a motor scooter and explore Corfu Island in more detail. To say that Corfu is a beautiful island would not be doing it justice.

Catching the bus into old Corfu Town of an evening was exciting. The old town comes alive at night, so pick a tavern table with a good view, order a bottle of wine, and watch the passing people parade. Getting back to being easy riders, we ventured out on the open roads to explore the inland of the island as well as the coastline. No helmets are required here, so under a cloudless blue sky your intrepid adventurers rode out. The beaches and coves especially on the western coast are spectacular, with sandy beaches and clear turquoise water.



Agni Taverna

Utilising our growing Greek road skills, we also took the opportunity to increase our awareness of Greek cuisine, to date we have found most restaurants in Greece serve the same style of food. Cooked by gran mum in the mornings and served by the family later in the day. What a surprise to drive down a small laneway to discover a beautiful small bay with three tavernas on the beach. Pick a table, then take three steps across the beach into the warm water, then back and dry under the sun rays on a sun beach lounge. After ordering, a waiter will gently remind you that your lunch is ready at your table. Kathleen as our resident food critic discovered one of these restaurants called Agni Taverna to be voted the best in Greece. Fresh seafood cooked to perfection with the most amazing sauces. Good inexpensive wine and the total bill would came to less than thirty five dollars. As you could expect, we became regulars there.

However keen readers, all was not rosy! Kathleen discovered that her visa was due to expire and all efforts to have it extended had failed. At that particular moment, due to a clerical error last year by your diligent Captain, it was also discovered that "Coorabell's" cruising period in Greece was fast approaching her expiry limit. Remaining in Greece would incur a large tax bill. Over a cold Greek wine, back at Agni Taverna, a round table conference of Captain and crew was urgently held. An easy decision was made, Albania lies two miles across the bay and is not a European Union country. On the motor scooter straight to Customs and away we go! I never imagined when I purchased "Coorabell " that we would be sailing to Albania, and then onto Montenegro.

We had a beautiful sail across from Corfu to the entry port of Sarandes. Unfortunately Albania has not quite opened her arms to the yachting fraternity and as yet does not cater at all to personal pleasure craft. Entering the port we were instructed to berth at the main ferry wharf. Large inter island ferries were coming and going at all hours of the day beside us, and that was the good part. The concrete wharf was three metres above our stern, resulting in acrobatics getting on and off.

After completing and paying for the necessary paper work ( all countries charge yachts to cruise in their waters ) we ventured out to explore this resort city. People of all ages were on the beach, swimming, sunbaking and playing ball games. That evening we dined at a small restaurant overlooking the harbour and was surprised again how inexpensive the meal was. A large local beer was $1. We took the opportunity to hire a local guide/driver and spent several days exploring the surrounding countryside. Only recently opening its borders to the outside world, the people were extremely friendly to visitors, especially practicing their English language skills. We found the local food markets to be cheap with fresh fruit, fish and vegetables.

Moving on, we sailed north overnighting in beautiful small uninhabited bays. The scenery was interesting - Albania under a communist dictatorship was concerned about invasion during the cold war. All along the coastline a small cement bunkers which Kathleen and I named Daleks from Dr Who. A soldier would sit with his rifle in these looking out to sea.


Albanian Dalek

After a week of relaxing in these bays, we entered the commercial port of Duress to clear out of the country and sail onto Albanian. Another surprise by the Albanian maritime authorities! "Coorabell" was instructed to berth under the grain loading cranes. The next morning it was impossible to see the decks under all the loose grain, not to mention all the grain that entered the interior through the open hatches. After cleaning the decks, we relaxed in the cockpit with a wine, just as a large vessel on the opposite side of the harbour was loading coal - now black decks - hence we are excited by the present heavy rain.


Where's Coorabell?

Duress Beach

We enjoyed our time in Albania, especially since we did not expect to be cruising there. We only encounted three other yachts while there, so enjoyed isolated anchorages with fresh seafood dinners. The country is still coming to terms after communism which is evident in the old buildings and especially there old cars. Old Mercs are the car of choice. When I enquired as to why, it was explained to me that they are reliable and that there is no one qualified to repair the new models. Cars are also the status symbol in Albanian, so every fifty or so metres is a hand operated car wash.
Our paper work completed, decks reasonably cleaned, we set sail for a day journey to Montenegro. Friends have sailed in the Gulf of Kotor there and have described it as one of the most beautiful fjords in the world, so that's our destination. We intend to spend two weeks there when it will be safe to return to Greece and haul out for the winter.

I hope that you have enjoyed this blog episode and that all are well and healthy back in Australia. Please keep in touch as we love to receive your e mails.


The rain has stopped, so it's time to go ashore and sample the famous finger mussels for lunch.

Love.
Captain Ron and First Mate ( and Greek food critic ) Kathleen.




Coorabell in Corfu

Hi everyone and welcome back,

Its a beautiful Corfu Saturday afternoon as I sit in the White House Taverna overlooking "Coorabell" gently rocking at anchor in Kalami Bay. A small bay with a pebble beach, three tavernas on the beach and several holiday villas. The taverna has an interesting history being the house in the 1930's of the famous English writers Lawence and Gerald Durrell. The house/restaurant is also famous for being in the James Bond movie For your eyes only. Of course, a cold Greek wine in hand.

The White House

Kioni Harbour

But back to where we last left off. After viewing the now infamous four turtles,  decided after walking through the township to enjoy a  cold Greek wine as a sundowner in the cockpit. We  were stern too the town seawall of Argostoli when I heard a voice call out "Coorabell". After introducing himself, our new friend was from Vaucluse in Sydney with a Greek ancestry. No sooner had he left to return with his wife and drinks were being enjoyed all round in the cockpit. His family were originally from this region and over more drinks he advised us to sail the ten miles north to a small island called Ithaca and especially berth at a small harbour called Kioni, where they had a family villa. We departed the following morning and spent an uncomfortable night anchored at Vathi. Early the next morning, wearing for the first time our wet weather gear, we sailed the five miles and mid morning entered to magical harbour of Kioni. With space for only fifteen or so yachts, we managed to secure a berth along the seawall and began to marvel at the beauty of this village. Four small restaurants and a store. Picture postcard. We met up with our new friends Jim and Rainn and enjoyed two days at this island. Surely this village is what every cruising yachtsmen loves to sail into. However, time to move on and we set sail for Sivota on Lefkas Island. Anchored in a pretty small bay to the south which was a base for charter yachts. Very busy but also peaceful. For a change we had a deadline to make at Cleopatras Marina on the mainland, so after staying only one night, sailed north. This was to provide another Corinth Canal experience as we had to navigate the Lefkas Canal passing through the floating swing bridge. Fear not folks, during our passage we anchored overnight in an bay and enjoyed sundowners at a restaurant on the beach. Cheap with great views. After negotiating the channel, we waited with other yachts to pass through the bridge which opens on the hour. Remember readers that yachts cannot queue, so much jostling was to be had! In amongst this confusion were large tugs and barges also trying to get through.



Travels Tip #5. Sitting in the cockpit enjoying a grilled octopus lunch ( with cold greek wine ) I was asked by a well dressed man on the seawall what language I spoke. I replied "English". He quickly walked up the gangplank and handed me a copy in English of The Watch Tower. Lesson here - pretend you are deaf!

We continued on for another hour and entered Cleopatra Marina. We intend to winter the boat here this year so had to make arrangements and also to pick up friends from Byron, Suzanne and Colin. Soon we were navigating the Levkas Channel, stopping briefly at Levkas Town for supermarket supplies and lunch. Off again for the island famous for its wasps - Meganissi. A short sail soon saw us anchored in a beautiful bay and ashore for sundowners. The guide book did not exaggerate about the wasps. However, we enjoyed ourselves for three nights here and off again north to Paxos Island. A good day sailing with the wind dying out towards dusk. By now, your Captain and courageous crew were beginning to wonder where to anchor for the night. Studying the chart, our navigator discovered a secluded bay about two miles north. As dusk decended, we entered one of the nicest bays called Mongonissi ,we have encounted. Small with several other yachts anchored, with a tavern within swimming distance. Ashore we studied the local tourist guide book and looking around this is a beautiful green island. We spent two nights here before sailing north to a small village at the top of the Island which we where recommended not to miss. As we entered the bay, the waterfront township of Lakka opened up to us. The bay was three metres deep, crystal clear water over sand. The minor problem was the other seventy two yachts also anchored here!

An enjoyable evening was spent anchored here before sailing north again to our destination - Corfu Town on Corfu. Taking some advise from an Australian yacht we had encountered, we berthed inside the old fort at the Corfu Sailing Club. Run down and expensive but right in the heart of the town. After dusk we ventured out and enjoyed dinner and drinks studying the passing parade. As most people here live in apartments, at 9pm the alleyways, parks and streets are filled with people, children and dogs. 10pm at night and it is daylight! Here our friends departed and Kath and I sailed for a few hours discovering a small bay with several tavernas on the pebbly shore. It was time for some serious relaxing, and here we are quietly anchored after our fifth night here. Tomorrow we will do the short motor to Gouvia Marina where we need some minor repairs done to "Coorabell".

However, dear readers, not is all beer and shittles for your sailing adventurers - Kathleen discovered after much noise holding, that a small leak was in our fwd sewerage holding tank, resulting in sewerage making its way slowly into the bilge. The fault was quickly repaired however, since then it has been my job to lift all the floor boards, sponge out the bilges and then disinfect each morning.

Hope that all healthy










The Cow in the Canal

Hi all,

We departed from Aegina at dawn for the four hour sail into a strong headwind - our destination The Corinth Canal! A quick history / geography lesson here. The Corinth can was constructed in 1893 and is a man made canal 3.2 miles long, 6 metres deep , 20 wide and 72 metres canal sides.  The canal was constructed to create a short cut from the Aegean Sea to the Ionian Sea.

Arriving at the canal dock we were lucky that only two other yachts were berthed. To continue our propping up of the Greek economy, we cheerfully entered the canal office credit card at the ready. I did momentarily neglected to mention that the Corinth Canal is the most expensive waterway in the world. After completely the endless paperwork, the credit card was reduced by 261 Euros ( $ 408 ).

We were ordered quickly back to "Coorabell" and instructed to motor to the waiting area. Enjoying the sunshine with three other yachts, you must remember that yachts cannot actually stand still and queue, but must motor around in endless circles. Again luck was with us with the radio calling for us to follow the two other yachts into the canal.

Champagne in hand, we progressed along the canal, marvelling at the chisel marks in the walls. During the passage vessels pass under three bridges and two opening bridges. At the Aegean side, just after entering you pass close by to a bar, full of drinkers who "toast" you past. After the second bridge, we heard a load scream, looking astern I thought that the following yacht made be in difficulties, but no, a bungy jumper right on our stern.






















Taking an hour to pass through we entered the Ionian Sea and sailed for several hours under a cloudless sky finally anchoring in a secluded bay just off the rocky beach. Next morning saw us motoring and joining our Brisbane newly weds at Itea. A depressing town ( might see Leonard Cohen here after all ). A half hour bus journey up into the mountains and out come the cameras. Here is an ancient site called Delphi. Quiet spectacular ruins with a fantastic vista and architecture.

After spending two nights at the seawall, we were quite happy to be sailing again with a short hop to the island of Trizonia. Berthing at a abandoned marina next to a Sydney yacht with our Brisbane friends astern. Stayed only one night at the beautiful green island and headed for the main town of Patras, as we were desperately short of fresh water.

Enjoyed a beautiful fast sail with "Coorabell" regularly exceeding 10 knots. However, all was not plain sailing! After receiving radio permission, we sailed under the Rion Bridge. A two knot current against us, 30 knot wind astern and two large slow moving vehicular ferries crossing ahead.

This bridge is the longest span bridge ( 2.25 klms ) in the world, but because of the high toll ( $69 )
for trucks, most vehicles still use the ferries. We berthed at the city marina ( buy one night get one free deal ) and again berthed beside the newly weds. Just another big city, but did give us the opportunity for a large super market shop and long hot showers.



Not being sports minded people, our next decision came as a shock and we departed both Patras and our Brisbane friends and made our way to the town of Katakolon. A beautiful small township which is the gateway to Olympia, home of the Olympic games. Hiring a car the next day we drove the 25 kilometres and walked through this amazing ancient site. We were surprised by the overall size of the area. Playing tourist, I had to get a photo of Kathleen on the starters block!

Driving back to the yacht I suggested the seafood restaurant where, the previous evening was packed with locals. Ron's travel tip number two - if the restaurant is packed in Greece, the food is not always good. We had our worst meal in Greece to date. I have since been taken off restaurant selection.

My next bright idea was on our next island of Zakinthos. The west coast of this small island is renown for its coastal beauty. We entered from the east. Hiring a 50cc motor scooter, your easy riders set out after breakfast to view this coastline. The coastline lived up to its reputation with your restaurant critic regaining his credibility in finding a restaurant over looking a spectacular gorge with the most bluest of water. However, travel tip number three. Do not do 170 kilometres in one day on a 50cc motor scooter. It took several days for both of us to sit again comfortably.

For those of you who know my fear of heights, this photo was not taken by the author!

We again set sail with Argostoli on the island of Kefallinia famous for its Logger Head turtles. We were reliably informed that at the town's sea wall up to 150 come to feed from the returning fishermen. Ha, next mourning your naturalists were in the prime viewing position, only to see 4.

Time for a swim and a cold Greek wine. Hope that all is going well for all back home and please keep up the e mails and comments as we really enjoying hearing from you.

Our next destination is  Ithaca Island where we will and spend a few days  days at a delightful seaside village called Kioni.

Till next time, stay safe and well.

Captain Ron and First Mate ( and restaurant critic ) Kathleen.

Searching for Leonard Cohen

Hi all,

Again, I will attempt an informative blog of our travels and adventures aboard the good ship 'Coorabell' as this year we sail through the Corinth Canal from the Aegean Sea into the Ionian Sea.

Our adventure begins flying into Athens where we spent two delightful days exploring the ancient ruins and restaurants of that great city. Our accommodation was a small hotel were, from the rooftop bar/restaurant, the view across to the Acropolis was breathtaking, especially at night with the lights highlighting the ruins.

Enjoyed exploring the ruins of Athens. Walking through the Acropolis was amazing, but also through the tourist alleys of the city. A highlight was the hourly changing of the guards at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Two greek soldiers in the most silly uniforms, short dresses with pom pom shoes march in what John Gleese must had invented the Ministry of Silly Walks.

A hint to future travellers, DO NOT fly Etihad!

On the third day it was time to venture to the boatyard, and hence our first Greek experience for the year. Haggling with the taxi driver, we eventually headed out for the hour drive to where "Coorabell" awaited us. Instructing the taxi driver into the boatyard, we informed him to drive around the dusty yard looking for a white hull with new white antifouling ( the underwater paint ). Several minutes later we parked beside "Coorabell", looking new with her dark blue antifouling - a minor mistake!

Overall, the boat looked great with the hull polished to a mirror like finish and new side stripes. Quite a lot of invisiable mechanical work was done this year which I won't bore you with. Next day we launched and spent the remaining day having the new stereo and speakers fitted but more importantly the solar panels and associated wiring. To date, this has been a life saver, constant cold wine from the fridges!

After paying the hideous boatyard account, including 23% tax, we motored for an hour and anchored in a delightful bay under an ancient temple of Posideon ( hopefully a good omen ) settling in again to living aboard. Next morning sailed out for a four hour passage to the island of Hydra. Upon reaching Hydra, decided not to head to the main small port, but anchored for two nights in a small picturesque bay within swimming distance of the only tavern.

After enjoying the bay it was time to weigh anchor and sail the 3/4 mile to Hydra Town and fulfil our mission. Entering the small harbour of Hydra Town is difficult. Being a tourist destination, the port is a hive of ferry activity. Luckily, we managed a berth in on the northern seawall, secured the yacht and explored the township. Mainly only a harbour front, Kath and I stumbled onto a quaint seafood restaurant. We enjoyed being the only patrons in the courtyard under the oldest and  biggest lemon tree I have ever seen. Sounds great except for lemons constantly falling onto your head, although we did leave with Kath's bag full of lemons!

Hydra Town is famous for being the Greek town where the  depressing and suicidal poet/song writer Leonard Cohen became famous. Search as we may, he could not be found - the interesting side of the islands life is that there are no vehicles allowed, only donkey transport..

Disappointed in not finding Mr Cohen, we sailed out and spent a night in a beautiful bay on Spetses Island. It blow a gale that night so in the morning made for the harbour, but it was crowded and windy with no room for a yacht of our size, not being unset, set sail and two hours later anchored in one of the most beautiful Greek bays, very small and all alone.

Left again and sailed into the port of Poros. Berthed in the middle of the town opposite a great seafood restaurant called "The Sailor Boy". A fresh seafood lunch was to be had then to explore the harbour front. Two yachts up from us were a newly married Brisbane couple, Ryan and Audrey. We agreed to meet them at our next port of Epidavros. Berthed again in town and the next day took a taxi with the honeymooners and visited the famous 4BC ampitheatre. Seating 14000 people, it was famous for its acoustics and is still used today for concerts.

The island also had an advantage of thousands of orange trees in full fruit, never the less we all left with bags full. Continued onto Aigina Island and again ( this is getting repetitive ) berthed right in the middle of the bustling harbour front. Hired a motor scooter the next day and explored the island visiting touristy beaches and famous temples. Located a seaside restaurant and enjoyed freshly caught grilled octopus and mussels.

Tomorrow we set sail for a twenty mile passage to the entrance to the Corinth Canal which will take us the four miles from the Aegean to the Ionian Sea.

All for now, but dear readers could you please send me at rdriver@mullum.com.au your e mail address as our server has lost all of our contact address.

Hope all are well and hear from you soon.

Regards.

Captain Ron and First Mate Kathleen

Mishaps along the way

Hi everyone,

Strange things have happened, but as you read this instead of enjoying a cold glass of Greek wine in the cockpit, I am anchored on a  patrol boat midway between Cape York and PNG - I am jumping ahead, so back to where we last left the fearless crew aboard "Coorabell".

Leaving the island of Nexas, we made the two hour sail under choppy conditions and entered the large protected bay of Naousa on Paros Island. Anchoring alone off a large sandy beach we spent the time relaxing, reading, swimming and preparing for our first guests. It was pleasant relaxing under the Greek sun with a glass of local wine.

Two days later we made the twenty minute passage across the bay and entered the small fishing harbour of Naousa township. We had already contacted the harbour master "Janni" who came with a friendly and helpful reputation. We were soon moored stern-to the quay surrounded by several other yachts and local fishing boats. This small out of the way marina is where we will be leaving
 "Coorabell" whilst I am back in Australia.





 

After formalities at dusk we explored the harbourside township. Our first and remaining impression is of a magical atmosphere. Numerous narrow alleyways crossing haphazardly through the town filled with shops of all descriptions, restaurants and bars. I felt comfortable leaving the yacht here for the month I will be away as Kathleen will be living aboard alone.

Our first guests arrived from Sydney, Mark, Sandra and their eleven year old daughter Rebel. They arrived aboard after spending three months living in a farmhouse in Tuscany. Over the following days the meltemi wind blew at gale force, closing the harbour. We took the opportunity to hire a car and explore the island of Paros. Beautiful beaches and a vista from the mountain was breathtaking. On our return to the yacht we stopped at a classic greek country restaurant for lunch, where the owner ( lived in Australia ) served us the local produce.

Waiting for the wind to abate, the girls took the opportunity to do some " retail therapy " whilst Mark and I propped up the local economy at various seaside tavernas.

Mishap #1

Return the hire car, and under pressure from his daughter and against Captain's advice, Mark hired a motor scooter and together headed off to a nearby waterslide theme park. Only to return several hours later minus several layers of precious skin! Enter nurses Kathleen and Sandra to the rescue.

Once the wind had eased, we motored across to a small inlet on an uninhabited island called Rini, where we spent time catching up. Mark is a marine electronics specialist, so I quickly put him to work sorting out our various electrical problems aboard. Whilst enjoying sundowners in the cockpit, we heard a large motor yacht anchor astern. Upon examination it was discovered to be the 55 metre yacht owned by Paris Hilton. The diva herself was not to be seen.



Leaving the quiet inlet we motored across the strait to the island of Mykonos. Great plans were laid for our time here, however, we soon discovered that Mykonos is known as the windiest island in Greece. We anchored in the very crowded anchorage to the south of the island and soon arranged to meet ashore with our friends from " Miss behaving ". Our idea was for Rebel to team up with the two children aboard and with the rest of us explore the township. With the wind guesting to 45 knots, I decided to stay aboard. A wise move indeed!

Mishap #2

Quietly working below, I was startled to hear a commotion topside. Investigating, I was shocked to discover that an older style cruising yacht had broken its mooring and was headed straight for
 " Coorabell ". Several dinghies were trying to guide it away to safety. I placed fenders along our side. Seeing the drama unfold from shore, Kath and Mark raced out in our dinghy and helped me push the yacht away. The two older men aboard the runaway yacht were so drunk ( it was 11 am ) that they were of no help whatsoever. Thinking that we had avoided damage, we turned to see that the other yacht had capsized our dinghy drowning our brand new outboard.  Kathleen and Mark performed an amazing rescue operation and retrieved the drowned outboard and within the hour Mark had it running like new. I'm convinced that me and outboards do not get along!

Returning to Naousa harbour, we again began exploring the township before our guests departed, threatening to return next year. The following day I saw Kathleen off on the inter island ferry for her long trip back to Australia. She had been organising her mother's 90th birthday party and was leaving to attend. Whilst in Sydney for the two weeks, she had the opportunity to catch up on friends and family. From all accounts the party was a huge success.

I remained aboard catching up on maintenance work. Mark had installed new batteries and associated monitors aboard, with the important function of keeping the two fridges working efficiently - no more luke-warm wine for this crew - many thanks to Mark.

Mishap #3

At dusk, Kath alighted from the ferry towing her wheeled bag and shoulder bag, she boarded the Athens airport bus. Thinking something was amiss, she noticed a man wearing a black cap standing beside her, then alight from the bus and walk away through the crowds. Grabbing her bags, she gave chase following him for several blocks before locating a policeman. The officer gave chase finally apprehending the " gypsy ". Once Kath arrived his bag was opened revealing Kath's purse. He was last seen being frog marched away handcuffed by three policemen.



On the same day that Kathleen returned to the yacht, I departed for the flight back to Brisbane then onto Darwin to commence my three week patrol. With " Coorabell " safe in her berth with power and water, Kath relaxed after her hectic time in Australia and using the yacht as a base to explore the surrounding islands by ferry. Friends from Sydney, Graeme and Susanne were returning to Sydney from London and decided to spend some time aboard to cut their journey and keep Kath company. Together they enjoyed their time visiting nearby islands and catching up.


Finishing my patrol next week, I will be returning to Paros with Susanne and Colin, friends who joined us last year in Turkey. Our plan is to quickly sail to Athens visiting several islands along the way, then pass through the Corinthian Canal ( google this one ) after which our guests will disembark. From there, we will make our way west to Cleopatra Marina where we intend to leave "Coorabell" for the winter. Depending on time, I may have to leave the yacht with Kathleen for her to organise the winter work and haul out. Only time will tell.

With both of us having to return to Australia for various reasons, our cruising time in the Aegean Sea has been reduced however, we have visited some great islands, experienced different cultures, tavernas and made new friends. To date, we have had a great experience.

Until our next blog, I hope that all are in good health, happy and looking forward to the warmer weather.

Regards.

Captain Ron and First Mate Kathleen.

 



The Meltemi Wind

Hi everyone,

I hope that this blog finds everyone well. Last year we experienced little to no wind in Turkey, the complete opposite this year in the Aegean with the Meltemi wind blowing a constant 25 knots. Currently we are in the small port of Naousa on Paros Island. Its a lovely township with a nice atmosphere . We are now half way through the season and this will be our base until early September when we sail west.

It has been a hectic week, travelling and meeting up with sailing friends. But, back to the travelogue. Leaving our Melbourne friends on "Miss Behaving" in the fjord bay at Astipalaia Island, we motored the short distance to the main township of Skala. Skala is a small fishing port of about 100 houses and a few restaurants. Entering the small quay, were delighted to see only two other yachts there. Manoeuvred within the harbour and berthed. Yippee, power and water for only 8 euros, long showers and hair treatment day for the first mate. Explored the township which had a nice feel to it, ending up having sundowners with a Brisbane couple.

Early the next day we continued west to Ios Island where we had arranged to meet another Melbourne family on their catamaran "Spen ash". On enetering the harbour there was only one vacant berth at the yacht seawall, right next to them. Once secured, it was drinks all round and plans for the next few days. Kim, the wife aboard being a hairdresser immediately got to work! (see photo )

Hiring two cars the following day, we played tourist around the small barren island, visiting Homer's Tomb and castle ruins before lunch at a tavern overlooking the coastline.

Secured safely alongside "Spen Ash" at the quay, Kath and I took the 45 minute ferry across to Santorini where we had accommodation for two nights. Santorini is the most photographed Greek island and I can understand why. It made the front cover of Lonely Planet. Villages perched on the vertical cliff face 800 metres above the sea. We hired a "Smart" car and spent our time exploring the villages and countryside.

However, a fatal error was made when we went on the three hour active volcano tour. Excited, we left the ferry and commenced walking, stopped, looked around at nothing but small hot sharp stones then looked at one another - and to add salt to the wound, with my fear of heights, you take a cable car up and down the vertical cliff to reach the wharf - cross this off the bucket list!

The photos show the good and the bad of Santorini. The island is famous for its sunsets, so enjoying a local wine, which was delicious, sat on our balcony and took in  the view. Kath rated it as a highlight of the season.

Walking through the cliff faced villages was fun, but you had to plan your timing as up to seven large cruise ships visit the island daily.

Returning to Ios, we took advantage of the rare light winds and motored across the strait to Naxos anchoring in the main harbour. The port is extremely busy with large ferries arriving and departing constantly. The port was pleasant with waterfront tavernas lining the shore. With "Coorabell" anchored behind the breakwall, we spent the day wondering through the back alleys. Next day's plans were cancelled as the meltemi had grown to gale force. From our cockpit we could see the spray from the waves over the breakwall. A day of reading and swimming.

Departed early the next morning and after an hour anchored off a long sandy beach in Naousa Island. The height of the season and where the only yacht, very pleasant for relaxing. As we have our first guests arriving from Sydney, left the next morning and an hour later berthed in the yacht basin. This is the marina where Kath will be berthed whilst I'm back in Australia on patrol.


Again, I hope that all is going well for all back in Australia and the worst of the cold wet winter is over. Keep in contact.

Well, its time to wonder along the waterfront, find a suitable taverna, prop up the ailing Greece economy  and await our guests.

Farewell from  Captain Ron and First Mate Kathleen.

Greece - the unfinished project Part 2

With the repairs done, sailed five miles south to a small fishing village, took a mooring and ventured ashore to the local taverna - sundowners with grilled octopus.

Continued onto the island of Kalimnos for our "paper work ". Non EU yachts must report into the Coast Guard at selected ports, producing their ships papers, insurance, crew details and transit log. These are sighted and stamped. Tax collected. Finally completed and with "Coorabell" stern too the seawall we spent the evening exploring the back alleys of this harbour town.

Woke up to a beautiful wind, so off lines and up sails. Enjoyed a most delightful sail for the twenty miles across to Kos. Wind on the port quarter, hand steered with the gunwale awash doing 13 knots
"Coorabell" in her element with Kath enjoying the new lounge chairs.

Flying the Flag @ 13 knots

In Kos Town, formalities completed and alongside, we explored the town at sunset, joining the hordes of English and German tourist. Alleyway after alleyway of junk tourist gift shops selling the same item. Next morning,enough is enough, departed for the marina to refuel and water. A beautiful dark blue Discovery 55 yacht pulled in front of us flying the Australian flag. A family from Melbourne on a circumnavigation. We have been cruising with them since.

We continued on with them for the 25 mile sail to a large bay on the islands southern tip. Due to the meltami blowing gale force, in company with the other crew we secured our yachts and took the local ferry across the strait to Nisiros Island, famous for its dominant but active volcano. Quite fascinating to walk across crater with steam rising from the fumaroles. ( you didn't  think that I would know that word ) but the sulphur smell!

 

Next day at dawn we weighed anchored and sailed the 34 miles to Astipalaia. We anchored in a fjord type bay with the meltami blowing 35 knots across our deck. Decisions have to be made here as we must be in Paros on the 16 to hopefully collect our new outboard ( that's a story in itself ) and meet our first guests on the 20th.

 

All going well aboard "Coorabell" (except for the outboard saga ) and am still enjoying the fresh seafood and cheap white wine. Keep in contact and we hope that all is going well for all.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Captain Ron and First Mate Kathleen