Mishaps along the way

Hi everyone,

Strange things have happened, but as you read this instead of enjoying a cold glass of Greek wine in the cockpit, I am anchored on a  patrol boat midway between Cape York and PNG - I am jumping ahead, so back to where we last left the fearless crew aboard "Coorabell".

Leaving the island of Nexas, we made the two hour sail under choppy conditions and entered the large protected bay of Naousa on Paros Island. Anchoring alone off a large sandy beach we spent the time relaxing, reading, swimming and preparing for our first guests. It was pleasant relaxing under the Greek sun with a glass of local wine.

Two days later we made the twenty minute passage across the bay and entered the small fishing harbour of Naousa township. We had already contacted the harbour master "Janni" who came with a friendly and helpful reputation. We were soon moored stern-to the quay surrounded by several other yachts and local fishing boats. This small out of the way marina is where we will be leaving
 "Coorabell" whilst I am back in Australia.





 

After formalities at dusk we explored the harbourside township. Our first and remaining impression is of a magical atmosphere. Numerous narrow alleyways crossing haphazardly through the town filled with shops of all descriptions, restaurants and bars. I felt comfortable leaving the yacht here for the month I will be away as Kathleen will be living aboard alone.

Our first guests arrived from Sydney, Mark, Sandra and their eleven year old daughter Rebel. They arrived aboard after spending three months living in a farmhouse in Tuscany. Over the following days the meltemi wind blew at gale force, closing the harbour. We took the opportunity to hire a car and explore the island of Paros. Beautiful beaches and a vista from the mountain was breathtaking. On our return to the yacht we stopped at a classic greek country restaurant for lunch, where the owner ( lived in Australia ) served us the local produce.

Waiting for the wind to abate, the girls took the opportunity to do some " retail therapy " whilst Mark and I propped up the local economy at various seaside tavernas.

Mishap #1

Return the hire car, and under pressure from his daughter and against Captain's advice, Mark hired a motor scooter and together headed off to a nearby waterslide theme park. Only to return several hours later minus several layers of precious skin! Enter nurses Kathleen and Sandra to the rescue.

Once the wind had eased, we motored across to a small inlet on an uninhabited island called Rini, where we spent time catching up. Mark is a marine electronics specialist, so I quickly put him to work sorting out our various electrical problems aboard. Whilst enjoying sundowners in the cockpit, we heard a large motor yacht anchor astern. Upon examination it was discovered to be the 55 metre yacht owned by Paris Hilton. The diva herself was not to be seen.



Leaving the quiet inlet we motored across the strait to the island of Mykonos. Great plans were laid for our time here, however, we soon discovered that Mykonos is known as the windiest island in Greece. We anchored in the very crowded anchorage to the south of the island and soon arranged to meet ashore with our friends from " Miss behaving ". Our idea was for Rebel to team up with the two children aboard and with the rest of us explore the township. With the wind guesting to 45 knots, I decided to stay aboard. A wise move indeed!

Mishap #2

Quietly working below, I was startled to hear a commotion topside. Investigating, I was shocked to discover that an older style cruising yacht had broken its mooring and was headed straight for
 " Coorabell ". Several dinghies were trying to guide it away to safety. I placed fenders along our side. Seeing the drama unfold from shore, Kath and Mark raced out in our dinghy and helped me push the yacht away. The two older men aboard the runaway yacht were so drunk ( it was 11 am ) that they were of no help whatsoever. Thinking that we had avoided damage, we turned to see that the other yacht had capsized our dinghy drowning our brand new outboard.  Kathleen and Mark performed an amazing rescue operation and retrieved the drowned outboard and within the hour Mark had it running like new. I'm convinced that me and outboards do not get along!

Returning to Naousa harbour, we again began exploring the township before our guests departed, threatening to return next year. The following day I saw Kathleen off on the inter island ferry for her long trip back to Australia. She had been organising her mother's 90th birthday party and was leaving to attend. Whilst in Sydney for the two weeks, she had the opportunity to catch up on friends and family. From all accounts the party was a huge success.

I remained aboard catching up on maintenance work. Mark had installed new batteries and associated monitors aboard, with the important function of keeping the two fridges working efficiently - no more luke-warm wine for this crew - many thanks to Mark.

Mishap #3

At dusk, Kath alighted from the ferry towing her wheeled bag and shoulder bag, she boarded the Athens airport bus. Thinking something was amiss, she noticed a man wearing a black cap standing beside her, then alight from the bus and walk away through the crowds. Grabbing her bags, she gave chase following him for several blocks before locating a policeman. The officer gave chase finally apprehending the " gypsy ". Once Kath arrived his bag was opened revealing Kath's purse. He was last seen being frog marched away handcuffed by three policemen.



On the same day that Kathleen returned to the yacht, I departed for the flight back to Brisbane then onto Darwin to commence my three week patrol. With " Coorabell " safe in her berth with power and water, Kath relaxed after her hectic time in Australia and using the yacht as a base to explore the surrounding islands by ferry. Friends from Sydney, Graeme and Susanne were returning to Sydney from London and decided to spend some time aboard to cut their journey and keep Kath company. Together they enjoyed their time visiting nearby islands and catching up.


Finishing my patrol next week, I will be returning to Paros with Susanne and Colin, friends who joined us last year in Turkey. Our plan is to quickly sail to Athens visiting several islands along the way, then pass through the Corinthian Canal ( google this one ) after which our guests will disembark. From there, we will make our way west to Cleopatra Marina where we intend to leave "Coorabell" for the winter. Depending on time, I may have to leave the yacht with Kathleen for her to organise the winter work and haul out. Only time will tell.

With both of us having to return to Australia for various reasons, our cruising time in the Aegean Sea has been reduced however, we have visited some great islands, experienced different cultures, tavernas and made new friends. To date, we have had a great experience.

Until our next blog, I hope that all are in good health, happy and looking forward to the warmer weather.

Regards.

Captain Ron and First Mate Kathleen.

 



The Meltemi Wind

Hi everyone,

I hope that this blog finds everyone well. Last year we experienced little to no wind in Turkey, the complete opposite this year in the Aegean with the Meltemi wind blowing a constant 25 knots. Currently we are in the small port of Naousa on Paros Island. Its a lovely township with a nice atmosphere . We are now half way through the season and this will be our base until early September when we sail west.

It has been a hectic week, travelling and meeting up with sailing friends. But, back to the travelogue. Leaving our Melbourne friends on "Miss Behaving" in the fjord bay at Astipalaia Island, we motored the short distance to the main township of Skala. Skala is a small fishing port of about 100 houses and a few restaurants. Entering the small quay, were delighted to see only two other yachts there. Manoeuvred within the harbour and berthed. Yippee, power and water for only 8 euros, long showers and hair treatment day for the first mate. Explored the township which had a nice feel to it, ending up having sundowners with a Brisbane couple.

Early the next day we continued west to Ios Island where we had arranged to meet another Melbourne family on their catamaran "Spen ash". On enetering the harbour there was only one vacant berth at the yacht seawall, right next to them. Once secured, it was drinks all round and plans for the next few days. Kim, the wife aboard being a hairdresser immediately got to work! (see photo )

Hiring two cars the following day, we played tourist around the small barren island, visiting Homer's Tomb and castle ruins before lunch at a tavern overlooking the coastline.

Secured safely alongside "Spen Ash" at the quay, Kath and I took the 45 minute ferry across to Santorini where we had accommodation for two nights. Santorini is the most photographed Greek island and I can understand why. It made the front cover of Lonely Planet. Villages perched on the vertical cliff face 800 metres above the sea. We hired a "Smart" car and spent our time exploring the villages and countryside.

However, a fatal error was made when we went on the three hour active volcano tour. Excited, we left the ferry and commenced walking, stopped, looked around at nothing but small hot sharp stones then looked at one another - and to add salt to the wound, with my fear of heights, you take a cable car up and down the vertical cliff to reach the wharf - cross this off the bucket list!

The photos show the good and the bad of Santorini. The island is famous for its sunsets, so enjoying a local wine, which was delicious, sat on our balcony and took in  the view. Kath rated it as a highlight of the season.

Walking through the cliff faced villages was fun, but you had to plan your timing as up to seven large cruise ships visit the island daily.

Returning to Ios, we took advantage of the rare light winds and motored across the strait to Naxos anchoring in the main harbour. The port is extremely busy with large ferries arriving and departing constantly. The port was pleasant with waterfront tavernas lining the shore. With "Coorabell" anchored behind the breakwall, we spent the day wondering through the back alleys. Next day's plans were cancelled as the meltemi had grown to gale force. From our cockpit we could see the spray from the waves over the breakwall. A day of reading and swimming.

Departed early the next morning and after an hour anchored off a long sandy beach in Naousa Island. The height of the season and where the only yacht, very pleasant for relaxing. As we have our first guests arriving from Sydney, left the next morning and an hour later berthed in the yacht basin. This is the marina where Kath will be berthed whilst I'm back in Australia on patrol.


Again, I hope that all is going well for all back in Australia and the worst of the cold wet winter is over. Keep in contact.

Well, its time to wonder along the waterfront, find a suitable taverna, prop up the ailing Greece economy  and await our guests.

Farewell from  Captain Ron and First Mate Kathleen.

Greece - the unfinished project Part 2

With the repairs done, sailed five miles south to a small fishing village, took a mooring and ventured ashore to the local taverna - sundowners with grilled octopus.

Continued onto the island of Kalimnos for our "paper work ". Non EU yachts must report into the Coast Guard at selected ports, producing their ships papers, insurance, crew details and transit log. These are sighted and stamped. Tax collected. Finally completed and with "Coorabell" stern too the seawall we spent the evening exploring the back alleys of this harbour town.

Woke up to a beautiful wind, so off lines and up sails. Enjoyed a most delightful sail for the twenty miles across to Kos. Wind on the port quarter, hand steered with the gunwale awash doing 13 knots
"Coorabell" in her element with Kath enjoying the new lounge chairs.

Flying the Flag @ 13 knots

In Kos Town, formalities completed and alongside, we explored the town at sunset, joining the hordes of English and German tourist. Alleyway after alleyway of junk tourist gift shops selling the same item. Next morning,enough is enough, departed for the marina to refuel and water. A beautiful dark blue Discovery 55 yacht pulled in front of us flying the Australian flag. A family from Melbourne on a circumnavigation. We have been cruising with them since.

We continued on with them for the 25 mile sail to a large bay on the islands southern tip. Due to the meltami blowing gale force, in company with the other crew we secured our yachts and took the local ferry across the strait to Nisiros Island, famous for its dominant but active volcano. Quite fascinating to walk across crater with steam rising from the fumaroles. ( you didn't  think that I would know that word ) but the sulphur smell!

 

Next day at dawn we weighed anchored and sailed the 34 miles to Astipalaia. We anchored in a fjord type bay with the meltami blowing 35 knots across our deck. Decisions have to be made here as we must be in Paros on the 16 to hopefully collect our new outboard ( that's a story in itself ) and meet our first guests on the 20th.

 

All going well aboard "Coorabell" (except for the outboard saga ) and am still enjoying the fresh seafood and cheap white wine. Keep in contact and we hope that all is going well for all.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Captain Ron and First Mate Kathleen

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Greece - land of the unfinished project Part 1

Hi every one,

Greece - land of the unfinished project. The landscape is covered with unfinished projects. Commercial buildings, houses - just abandoned. If its not finished, its for sale!

We are currently berthed in a small remote fishing harbour called Skala on the island of Astipalaia. Its very off the tourist trail with only two French yachts at the quarry. The township is picture post card Greece. White houses over looking the harbour with blue shutters and roofs. Old ladies dressed in black hanging out washing in the alleyways. Several tavernas overlooking the fishing boats. Fishing nets on the pier. Extremely Greek, but wait, were in Greece!



Born to be wild

Coorabell's travels since leaving Turkey have been. Bodrum - Agothonision - Samos - Fournoi - Ikaria -Arki - Lipso - Leros - Kalimnos, Kos and now Astiipalaia.

Sailed south from Leros under good conditions. The meltami, the north west seasonal wind has certainly kicked in, blowing 25 knots almost daily, but keeping the temperature at pleasant 30 degs.

We were expecting to have to go the expensive marina at Kos Town for repairs to our gooseneck on the mast. A washer had disintegrating causing an annoying creaking noise above our bed. I anticipated an expensive repair. However, on entering the quarry at Leros, an English couple beside us had a spare washer, and with some ingenuity, we had it repaired in less than an hour. Beers all round.

We decided to stay in the harbour for a few extra days so anchored out. Each Greek Island has a different feel. This one was an Italian naval base in WW11 and the atmosphere and architecture remain. We hired a trust 50cc motor scooter and explored the island, which was barren but beautiful.
Discovering the "European riviera beach scene " we scootered across  the following day and joined the sun worshipers. Beach lounge chairs, waiters with cocktails and the tiniest bikinis. Lunch at a taverna with tables and chairs in the water.

Living in fishbowl #2

Living in a fishbowl continued

Our view

Commencing in Samos, we have sailed south visiting these islands usually for two nights. Samos to Agothonision,then Fournoi,Ikaria,PatmosArki and now Lipso. Tomorrow, let the wind guide us.

When we are in the larger ports, we rent a 50cc motor scooter. At 8 euros a day it makes sighseeing and provisioning much easier.Its great fun, with no helmets on screaming through the countryside at a top speed of 50 kph!

All has not been relaxing, as we have taken the opportunity at anchorages to spend time bring "Coorabell" back into shape. The decks are now spotless and the stainless steel so polished it hurts your eyes to look at it. The old girl almost looks like new. We have also added lounge chairs to the cockpit and WiFi throughout.

Our observations to date of Greece is that it's bankrupt. People are locking thier houses, unfinished projects and businesses closing. The only business making any money is the locksmith! The other observation is that every Greek was either born in Australia, been to Australia or has a relative in Australia.

Unfortunately our individual time here has been reduced. Kathleen, under pressure, has to return to Sydney for two weeks in late July early August for her mothers 90th birthday and I have been recalled to do a three week patrol commencing Aug 15. Whilst I am away, Kathleen will be aboard in a marina at Paros and do day trips to other islands. We pass each other at Athens airport.

We have taken to the med diet, usually fresh seafood brought from a local fisherman. The Captain has discovered a good Greek white wine at 4.50 euros a two litre bottle, although the crew refuse to drink it, not even in cooking.

The much loved hard floored tender

 

Hoping that all is healthy and hear from you soon.

 

Captain Ron and First Mate Kathleen

21 June 2013

 

 



 

 

 





Living in a fishbowl

Hi everyone,

Berthed in a small fishing quarry on the remote island of Lipso or Lipsi. Surprisingly we have just returned from a "big fat Greek wedding" at a local seaside restaurant. Somehow, we walked into the restaurant for lunch right in the middle of the wedding and the rest is history! It was funny as no one was dressed up, one girl even had a bikini on.

The good crew of "Coorabell" have easily slipped into the relaxed Greek island lifestyle aboard. We have thoughly enjoyed the islands that we have visited so far, meeting with friendly local islanders. The islands have been picturesque with white houses painted blue doors,windows and roofs. Every few kilometres along the shore or perched on a hill is a white church with a blue roof.

Except for provisioning, we have mostly anchored at the more remote islands off the tourist trail. For the last two nights we picked up a mooring in a small bay with only five houses and two tavernas along the foreshore. Lonely Planet stated that only two families live on the island.

All alone

At Fournoi ( see photo ) I was advised by a local fisherman to up anchor and move alongsie into the quarry as it had sufficent depth for us.On entering, we berth alongside at the enterance. Secure, we poured a wine and took in the vista. However, as night fell the two leading navigation lights ( flashing red and green ) came alive, and where only five metres from us. No sleep for us that night.

In the larger ports, we berth mediterrean style of laying out the anchor and going astern into the quarry. This usually means that a taverna is only metres from our stern. With the hot climate, Kath and I spend our time aboard in the cockpit, reading,meals etc. As dusk approaches, families and lovers promenade along the seawall, its like " living in a fishbowl" but fun.

Living in a fishbowl

The positive side is that it usually cost about 5 - 6 euros a night including water and electricity. Very convenient but loss of privacy. ( Judie please note gangplank )

Will contine as do not know how to go to next page!

 

Finally in Greek Waters

Hi guys,

Finally departed Turkey and am now unofficially in Greece. Our time in Turkey was fun, catching up with sailing friends from last year and hopefully having all our on board work completed.

Our delay to Greece was that the alternator to battery charging system was incorrectly fitted in Marmaris and although we had to double back to have it operational, the original technician advised me to ignore the red failure lights! It was not until some weeks later, and numerous e mails to the manufacturer, that another technician in Turgutreis got it working correctly.

In the meantime, we did have the opportunity to explore more of the Turkish coast to destinations that we did not visit last year. Stayed several nights in the expensive Turgutreis marina whilst the work was carried out then sailed west to the townships of Gumuslik and Yalikavak ( try saying them after a few wines ! ). The coastline in this area is interesting, as all the houses on the hillsides are small boxes painted white.All identical for kilometres after kilometres.

The weather is in the mid thirties with this year the north west wind ( melteme ) is blowing so making life aboard pleasant. Sea temperature 23 degs.

As the Greek island of Symi is only eight miles from the Turkish coast, we decided to illegally sail across for a few days and get a taste of the Greek lifestyle. Due to the fact that we had no legal paperwork for being there, decided to anchor in a small bay called Pedi right in front of the taverna.The main port was only a 10 minute bus ride so we spent time exploring the harbour front and shops. Touristy but nice.

 

Kath at Pedi taverna with "Coorabell"

 

Hired a motor scooter for our stay there and explored the island, which has only a few roads and is quite small.On one of these "born to be wild" excursions, we took a side road and after two kilometres come across a beautiful small bay called Marathounda The only real building there was  a restaurant on the beach. Enjoyed a swim in the clear water to get the road dust off before a few beers and a fresh seafood lunch.

 

 

 

 

Marathounda beachside reataurant

 

Riding around the island a great experience, as it is very hilly which was a challenge for the motor scooter at times. No helmets are required, so your senses are filled with pine and wild herbs.

 

With a taste of Greek life, we sailed back to Turgutreis for provisions and diesel ( $2.40/litre ) but more importantly to clear with the port authorities and depart for Greece.However, all was not plain sailing. Along the way we managed to get a plastic bag in our engine's sea water intake causing alot of smoke and some concern to your author. That problem overcome, it was off to the port authorities to clear "Coorabell" and crew from Turkey.Difficulties in the language were quickly over come when I was informed that our cruising permit had expired a month ago and to depart will incur a 127 lire( $85 ) fine. Rather embarrassing for a Customs Officer!

 

After a pleasant three hour motor sail we entered Greece waters and entered a small picturesque bay called Agios Georgios on the island of Agathonisi. After anchoring in clear turquoise water, we sat back wine in hand and took in the view. The hamlet has about twenty houses and two small family run restaurants. We later learnt that only 150 people live on the island.There were two other yachts at anchor, one being from Perth.

finally afloat

Hi guys,

This is my first attempt at writing a blog site, so excuse the mistakes!

Before flying down to the yacht, Kathleen and I spent some time in Turkey playing tourist. This time in Istanbul we stayed on the european side which has a completly different feel from the old quarter. Enjoyed exploying the markets and come across some fantastic cheap seafood restaurants and antique shops.

Enjoyed an afternoon on a local ferry exploring the Bospherous viewing the palaces and mansions. The next day drove down to Gallipoli and spent the afternoon walking around the landing beach and assembly areas. Althought Kath and I are not military inclined people, it was an amazing feeling. The landing beach and assembly area are really small. From the beach you could see the impossible task the anzacs had to defeat the Turks. Walking through the trenches gave you a feeling of what the soldiers would have experienced, at some places the enermy were only eight metres away!

The following day was dissappointing with a visit to the ancient city of Troy - old rocks covered in grass.

Back in Istanbul we flew to the Capadoccia region where the "Star Wars" movies were filmed. Two experiences there stood out, the visit to two underground cities where up to 10,000 people lived for up to six months being eighty metres below the surface. However, the highlight was a dawn hot air balloon flight over this incredible landscape. Pre dawn, we enjoyed a breakfast while the balloon was filled with hot air, then boarded the cane basket with twelve other "aviators". Being afraid of heights, I was hesitant but did not realise we had taken off until I looked down and we were two metres off the ground. For the 1.5 hour flight the pilot controlled our height, but the wind contolled our direction. We cruised along at 8 k/h with eighty three other balloons, a fantastic sight.


eighty three balloons

At our hotel, the booking agent must have made a mistake, and upon arrival we where given the royal treatment before being escorted to the "Royal suite", being the size of a small apartment.I thought it inappropriate to tell the manager that a mistake had taken place.

Returning to Istanbul we flew down to the boatyard. "Coorabell" was scheduled for launching in two days time which give us time to organise tradesmen to carry out pre launching work. In the meantime, we managed to catch up with sailing friends from last year, of course, over a glass or two of wine!

 

After being told that we would be launched at 9am the following day,we finally floated at 6pm the following day and motored around to our berth.It felt good to be back aboard and afloat. After being left abandoned for six months,the boat looked in great condition.Within a day or so,we had the interior "ship shape" and liveable.

 

Next came organising technicians to install all the electronic and navigation equipment that we had brought across. Thank godness, luck was with us and we where remembered from last season and managed to get priority treatment.

 

For the yachties, we installed the latest AIS transciever with an interfaced VHF DSC radio, along with a 160 amp alternator to battery charger which will reduce the use of the engine to charge our batteries by 50%.

 

For those who visited last year, we are proud to announce that we have purchased a new hard floor dinghy with a 10hp outboard-so we can now zip everywhere at speed and comfort.

The sails have been placed back aboard after the winter storage,and yes, a vital small part for the mainsail has dissappeared,so am waiting for a new one to arrive from Istanbul, and then we will provision and start out for Greece via a few weeks on the Turkish west coast.

 

I hope that you have enjoyed my first blog, I promoise that they will improve with time and please send some comments,we would love to hear from you.

 

Regards.

 

Captain Ron and First Mate Kathleen