The Meltemi Wind

Hi everyone,

I hope that this blog finds everyone well. Last year we experienced little to no wind in Turkey, the complete opposite this year in the Aegean with the Meltemi wind blowing a constant 25 knots. Currently we are in the small port of Naousa on Paros Island. Its a lovely township with a nice atmosphere . We are now half way through the season and this will be our base until early September when we sail west.

It has been a hectic week, travelling and meeting up with sailing friends. But, back to the travelogue. Leaving our Melbourne friends on "Miss Behaving" in the fjord bay at Astipalaia Island, we motored the short distance to the main township of Skala. Skala is a small fishing port of about 100 houses and a few restaurants. Entering the small quay, were delighted to see only two other yachts there. Manoeuvred within the harbour and berthed. Yippee, power and water for only 8 euros, long showers and hair treatment day for the first mate. Explored the township which had a nice feel to it, ending up having sundowners with a Brisbane couple.

Early the next day we continued west to Ios Island where we had arranged to meet another Melbourne family on their catamaran "Spen ash". On enetering the harbour there was only one vacant berth at the yacht seawall, right next to them. Once secured, it was drinks all round and plans for the next few days. Kim, the wife aboard being a hairdresser immediately got to work! (see photo )

Hiring two cars the following day, we played tourist around the small barren island, visiting Homer's Tomb and castle ruins before lunch at a tavern overlooking the coastline.

Secured safely alongside "Spen Ash" at the quay, Kath and I took the 45 minute ferry across to Santorini where we had accommodation for two nights. Santorini is the most photographed Greek island and I can understand why. It made the front cover of Lonely Planet. Villages perched on the vertical cliff face 800 metres above the sea. We hired a "Smart" car and spent our time exploring the villages and countryside.

However, a fatal error was made when we went on the three hour active volcano tour. Excited, we left the ferry and commenced walking, stopped, looked around at nothing but small hot sharp stones then looked at one another - and to add salt to the wound, with my fear of heights, you take a cable car up and down the vertical cliff to reach the wharf - cross this off the bucket list!

The photos show the good and the bad of Santorini. The island is famous for its sunsets, so enjoying a local wine, which was delicious, sat on our balcony and took in  the view. Kath rated it as a highlight of the season.

Walking through the cliff faced villages was fun, but you had to plan your timing as up to seven large cruise ships visit the island daily.

Returning to Ios, we took advantage of the rare light winds and motored across the strait to Naxos anchoring in the main harbour. The port is extremely busy with large ferries arriving and departing constantly. The port was pleasant with waterfront tavernas lining the shore. With "Coorabell" anchored behind the breakwall, we spent the day wondering through the back alleys. Next day's plans were cancelled as the meltemi had grown to gale force. From our cockpit we could see the spray from the waves over the breakwall. A day of reading and swimming.

Departed early the next morning and after an hour anchored off a long sandy beach in Naousa Island. The height of the season and where the only yacht, very pleasant for relaxing. As we have our first guests arriving from Sydney, left the next morning and an hour later berthed in the yacht basin. This is the marina where Kath will be berthed whilst I'm back in Australia on patrol.


Again, I hope that all is going well for all back in Australia and the worst of the cold wet winter is over. Keep in contact.

Well, its time to wonder along the waterfront, find a suitable taverna, prop up the ailing Greece economy  and await our guests.

Farewell from  Captain Ron and First Mate Kathleen.

Greece - the unfinished project Part 2

With the repairs done, sailed five miles south to a small fishing village, took a mooring and ventured ashore to the local taverna - sundowners with grilled octopus.

Continued onto the island of Kalimnos for our "paper work ". Non EU yachts must report into the Coast Guard at selected ports, producing their ships papers, insurance, crew details and transit log. These are sighted and stamped. Tax collected. Finally completed and with "Coorabell" stern too the seawall we spent the evening exploring the back alleys of this harbour town.

Woke up to a beautiful wind, so off lines and up sails. Enjoyed a most delightful sail for the twenty miles across to Kos. Wind on the port quarter, hand steered with the gunwale awash doing 13 knots
"Coorabell" in her element with Kath enjoying the new lounge chairs.

Flying the Flag @ 13 knots

In Kos Town, formalities completed and alongside, we explored the town at sunset, joining the hordes of English and German tourist. Alleyway after alleyway of junk tourist gift shops selling the same item. Next morning,enough is enough, departed for the marina to refuel and water. A beautiful dark blue Discovery 55 yacht pulled in front of us flying the Australian flag. A family from Melbourne on a circumnavigation. We have been cruising with them since.

We continued on with them for the 25 mile sail to a large bay on the islands southern tip. Due to the meltami blowing gale force, in company with the other crew we secured our yachts and took the local ferry across the strait to Nisiros Island, famous for its dominant but active volcano. Quite fascinating to walk across crater with steam rising from the fumaroles. ( you didn't  think that I would know that word ) but the sulphur smell!

 

Next day at dawn we weighed anchored and sailed the 34 miles to Astipalaia. We anchored in a fjord type bay with the meltami blowing 35 knots across our deck. Decisions have to be made here as we must be in Paros on the 16 to hopefully collect our new outboard ( that's a story in itself ) and meet our first guests on the 20th.

 

All going well aboard "Coorabell" (except for the outboard saga ) and am still enjoying the fresh seafood and cheap white wine. Keep in contact and we hope that all is going well for all.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Captain Ron and First Mate Kathleen

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Greece - land of the unfinished project Part 1

Hi every one,

Greece - land of the unfinished project. The landscape is covered with unfinished projects. Commercial buildings, houses - just abandoned. If its not finished, its for sale!

We are currently berthed in a small remote fishing harbour called Skala on the island of Astipalaia. Its very off the tourist trail with only two French yachts at the quarry. The township is picture post card Greece. White houses over looking the harbour with blue shutters and roofs. Old ladies dressed in black hanging out washing in the alleyways. Several tavernas overlooking the fishing boats. Fishing nets on the pier. Extremely Greek, but wait, were in Greece!



Born to be wild

Coorabell's travels since leaving Turkey have been. Bodrum - Agothonision - Samos - Fournoi - Ikaria -Arki - Lipso - Leros - Kalimnos, Kos and now Astiipalaia.

Sailed south from Leros under good conditions. The meltami, the north west seasonal wind has certainly kicked in, blowing 25 knots almost daily, but keeping the temperature at pleasant 30 degs.

We were expecting to have to go the expensive marina at Kos Town for repairs to our gooseneck on the mast. A washer had disintegrating causing an annoying creaking noise above our bed. I anticipated an expensive repair. However, on entering the quarry at Leros, an English couple beside us had a spare washer, and with some ingenuity, we had it repaired in less than an hour. Beers all round.

We decided to stay in the harbour for a few extra days so anchored out. Each Greek Island has a different feel. This one was an Italian naval base in WW11 and the atmosphere and architecture remain. We hired a trust 50cc motor scooter and explored the island, which was barren but beautiful.
Discovering the "European riviera beach scene " we scootered across  the following day and joined the sun worshipers. Beach lounge chairs, waiters with cocktails and the tiniest bikinis. Lunch at a taverna with tables and chairs in the water.