Thursday, 19 June 2014

The Cow in the Canal


Hi all,

We departed from Aegina at dawn for the four hour sail into a strong headwind - our destination The Corinth Canal! A quick history / geography lesson here. The Corinth can was constructed in 1893 and is a man made canal 3.2 miles long, 6 metres deep , 20 wide and 72 metres canal sides.  The canal was constructed to create a short cut from the Aegean Sea to the Ionian Sea.

Arriving at the canal dock we were lucky that only two other yachts were berthed. To continue our propping up of the Greek economy, we cheerfully entered the canal office credit card at the ready. I did momentarily neglected to mention that the Corinth Canal is the most expensive waterway in the world. After completely the endless paperwork, the credit card was reduced by 261 Euros ( $ 408 ).

We were ordered quickly back to "Coorabell" and instructed to motor to the waiting area. Enjoying the sunshine with three other yachts, you must remember that yachts cannot actually stand still and queue, but must motor around in endless circles. Again luck was with us with the radio calling for us to follow the two other yachts into the canal.

Champagne in hand, we progressed along the canal, marvelling at the chisel marks in the walls. During the passage vessels pass under three bridges and two opening bridges. At the Aegean side, just after entering you pass close by to a bar, full of drinkers who "toast" you past. After the second bridge, we heard a load scream, looking astern I thought that the following yacht made be in difficulties, but no, a bungy jumper right on our stern.






















Taking an hour to pass through we entered the Ionian Sea and sailed for several hours under a cloudless sky finally anchoring in a secluded bay just off the rocky beach. Next morning saw us motoring and joining our Brisbane newly weds at Itea. A depressing town ( might see Leonard Cohen here after all ). A half hour bus journey up into the mountains and out come the cameras. Here is an ancient site called Delphi. Quiet spectacular ruins with a fantastic vista and architecture.

After spending two nights at the seawall, we were quite happy to be sailing again with a short hop to the island of Trizonia. Berthing at a abandoned marina next to a Sydney yacht with our Brisbane friends astern. Stayed only one night at the beautiful green island and headed for the main town of Patras, as we were desperately short of fresh water.

Enjoyed a beautiful fast sail with "Coorabell" regularly exceeding 10 knots. However, all was not plain sailing! After receiving radio permission, we sailed under the Rion Bridge. A two knot current against us, 30 knot wind astern and two large slow moving vehicular ferries crossing ahead.

This bridge is the longest span bridge ( 2.25 klms ) in the world, but because of the high toll ( $69 )
for trucks, most vehicles still use the ferries. We berthed at the city marina ( buy one night get one free deal ) and again berthed beside the newly weds. Just another big city, but did give us the opportunity for a large super market shop and long hot showers.



Not being sports minded people, our next decision came as a shock and we departed both Patras and our Brisbane friends and made our way to the town of Katakolon. A beautiful small township which is the gateway to Olympia, home of the Olympic games. Hiring a car the next day we drove the 25 kilometres and walked through this amazing ancient site. We were surprised by the overall size of the area. Playing tourist, I had to get a photo of Kathleen on the starters block!

Driving back to the yacht I suggested the seafood restaurant where, the previous evening was packed with locals. Ron's travel tip number two - if the restaurant is packed in Greece, the food is not always good. We had our worst meal in Greece to date. I have since been taken off restaurant selection.

My next bright idea was on our next island of Zakinthos. The west coast of this small island is renown for its coastal beauty. We entered from the east. Hiring a 50cc motor scooter, your easy riders set out after breakfast to view this coastline. The coastline lived up to its reputation with your restaurant critic regaining his credibility in finding a restaurant over looking a spectacular gorge with the most bluest of water. However, travel tip number three. Do not do 170 kilometres in one day on a 50cc motor scooter. It took several days for both of us to sit again comfortably.

For those of you who know my fear of heights, this photo was not taken by the author!

We again set sail with Argostoli on the island of Kefallinia famous for its Logger Head turtles. We were reliably informed that at the town's sea wall up to 150 come to feed from the returning fishermen. Ha, next mourning your naturalists were in the prime viewing position, only to see 4.

Time for a swim and a cold Greek wine. Hope that all is going well for all back home and please keep up the e mails and comments as we really enjoying hearing from you.

Our next destination is  Ithaca Island where we will and spend a few days  days at a delightful seaside village called Kioni.

Till next time, stay safe and well.

Captain Ron and First Mate ( and restaurant critic ) Kathleen.










Sunday, 8 June 2014

Searching for Leonard Cohen

Hi all,

Again, I will attempt an informative blog of our travels and adventures aboard the good ship 'Coorabell' as this year we sail through the Corinth Canal from the Aegean Sea into the Ionian Sea.

Our adventure begins flying into Athens where we spent two delightful days exploring the ancient ruins and restaurants of that great city. Our accommodation was a small hotel were, from the rooftop bar/restaurant, the view across to the Acropolis was breathtaking, especially at night with the lights highlighting the ruins.

Enjoyed exploring the ruins of Athens. Walking through the Acropolis was amazing, but also through the tourist alleys of the city. A highlight was the hourly changing of the guards at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Two greek soldiers in the most silly uniforms, short dresses with pom pom shoes march in what John Gleese must had invented the Ministry of Silly Walks.

A hint to future travellers, DO NOT fly Etihad!

On the third day it was time to venture to the boatyard, and hence our first Greek experience for the year. Haggling with the taxi driver, we eventually headed out for the hour drive to where "Coorabell" awaited us. Instructing the taxi driver into the boatyard, we informed him to drive around the dusty yard looking for a white hull with new white antifouling ( the underwater paint ). Several minutes later we parked beside "Coorabell", looking new with her dark blue antifouling - a minor mistake!

Overall, the boat looked great with the hull polished to a mirror like finish and new side stripes. Quite a lot of invisiable mechanical work was done this year which I won't bore you with. Next day we launched and spent the remaining day having the new stereo and speakers fitted but more importantly the solar panels and associated wiring. To date, this has been a life saver, constant cold wine from the fridges!

After paying the hideous boatyard account, including 23% tax, we motored for an hour and anchored in a delightful bay under an ancient temple of Posideon ( hopefully a good omen ) settling in again to living aboard. Next morning sailed out for a four hour passage to the island of Hydra. Upon reaching Hydra, decided not to head to the main small port, but anchored for two nights in a small picturesque bay within swimming distance of the only tavern.

After enjoying the bay it was time to weigh anchor and sail the 3/4 mile to Hydra Town and fulfil our mission. Entering the small harbour of Hydra Town is difficult. Being a tourist destination, the port is a hive of ferry activity. Luckily, we managed a berth in on the northern seawall, secured the yacht and explored the township. Mainly only a harbour front, Kath and I stumbled onto a quaint seafood restaurant. We enjoyed being the only patrons in the courtyard under the oldest and  biggest lemon tree I have ever seen. Sounds great except for lemons constantly falling onto your head, although we did leave with Kath's bag full of lemons!

Hydra Town is famous for being the Greek town where the  depressing and suicidal poet/song writer Leonard Cohen became famous. Search as we may, he could not be found - the interesting side of the islands life is that there are no vehicles allowed, only donkey transport..

Disappointed in not finding Mr Cohen, we sailed out and spent a night in a beautiful bay on Spetses Island. It blow a gale that night so in the morning made for the harbour, but it was crowded and windy with no room for a yacht of our size, not being unset, set sail and two hours later anchored in one of the most beautiful Greek bays, very small and all alone.

Left again and sailed into the port of Poros. Berthed in the middle of the town opposite a great seafood restaurant called "The Sailor Boy". A fresh seafood lunch was to be had then to explore the harbour front. Two yachts up from us were a newly married Brisbane couple, Ryan and Audrey. We agreed to meet them at our next port of Epidavros. Berthed again in town and the next day took a taxi with the honeymooners and visited the famous 4BC ampitheatre. Seating 14000 people, it was famous for its acoustics and is still used today for concerts.

The island also had an advantage of thousands of orange trees in full fruit, never the less we all left with bags full. Continued onto Aigina Island and again ( this is getting repetitive ) berthed right in the middle of the bustling harbour front. Hired a motor scooter the next day and explored the island visiting touristy beaches and famous temples. Located a seaside restaurant and enjoyed freshly caught grilled octopus and mussels.

Tomorrow we set sail for a twenty mile passage to the entrance to the Corinth Canal which will take us the four miles from the Aegean to the Ionian Sea.

All for now, but dear readers could you please send me at rdriver@mullum.com.au your e mail address as our server has lost all of our contact address.

Hope all are well and hear from you soon.

Regards.

Captain Ron and First Mate Kathleen