Albanian Adventures

Hi everyone,

Well, what a perfect opportunity to write a blog on our recent travels. "Coorabell" is snug in a small fishing port, with the Captain and crew below decks listening to the thunder and heavy rain beating down on the decks. The good news is that the decks need a good cleaning ( more to come on that particular note ) but back to how we managed to get here.

Commencing from where we last left off, the yacht was safely berthed at Gouvia Marina in Corfu, allowing Kath and I to hire a motor scooter and explore Corfu Island in more detail. To say that Corfu is a beautiful island would not be doing it justice.

Catching the bus into old Corfu Town of an evening was exciting. The old town comes alive at night, so pick a tavern table with a good view, order a bottle of wine, and watch the passing people parade. Getting back to being easy riders, we ventured out on the open roads to explore the inland of the island as well as the coastline. No helmets are required here, so under a cloudless blue sky your intrepid adventurers rode out. The beaches and coves especially on the western coast are spectacular, with sandy beaches and clear turquoise water.



Agni Taverna

Utilising our growing Greek road skills, we also took the opportunity to increase our awareness of Greek cuisine, to date we have found most restaurants in Greece serve the same style of food. Cooked by gran mum in the mornings and served by the family later in the day. What a surprise to drive down a small laneway to discover a beautiful small bay with three tavernas on the beach. Pick a table, then take three steps across the beach into the warm water, then back and dry under the sun rays on a sun beach lounge. After ordering, a waiter will gently remind you that your lunch is ready at your table. Kathleen as our resident food critic discovered one of these restaurants called Agni Taverna to be voted the best in Greece. Fresh seafood cooked to perfection with the most amazing sauces. Good inexpensive wine and the total bill would came to less than thirty five dollars. As you could expect, we became regulars there.

However keen readers, all was not rosy! Kathleen discovered that her visa was due to expire and all efforts to have it extended had failed. At that particular moment, due to a clerical error last year by your diligent Captain, it was also discovered that "Coorabell's" cruising period in Greece was fast approaching her expiry limit. Remaining in Greece would incur a large tax bill. Over a cold Greek wine, back at Agni Taverna, a round table conference of Captain and crew was urgently held. An easy decision was made, Albania lies two miles across the bay and is not a European Union country. On the motor scooter straight to Customs and away we go! I never imagined when I purchased "Coorabell " that we would be sailing to Albania, and then onto Montenegro.

We had a beautiful sail across from Corfu to the entry port of Sarandes. Unfortunately Albania has not quite opened her arms to the yachting fraternity and as yet does not cater at all to personal pleasure craft. Entering the port we were instructed to berth at the main ferry wharf. Large inter island ferries were coming and going at all hours of the day beside us, and that was the good part. The concrete wharf was three metres above our stern, resulting in acrobatics getting on and off.

After completing and paying for the necessary paper work ( all countries charge yachts to cruise in their waters ) we ventured out to explore this resort city. People of all ages were on the beach, swimming, sunbaking and playing ball games. That evening we dined at a small restaurant overlooking the harbour and was surprised again how inexpensive the meal was. A large local beer was $1. We took the opportunity to hire a local guide/driver and spent several days exploring the surrounding countryside. Only recently opening its borders to the outside world, the people were extremely friendly to visitors, especially practicing their English language skills. We found the local food markets to be cheap with fresh fruit, fish and vegetables.

Moving on, we sailed north overnighting in beautiful small uninhabited bays. The scenery was interesting - Albania under a communist dictatorship was concerned about invasion during the cold war. All along the coastline a small cement bunkers which Kathleen and I named Daleks from Dr Who. A soldier would sit with his rifle in these looking out to sea.


Albanian Dalek

After a week of relaxing in these bays, we entered the commercial port of Duress to clear out of the country and sail onto Albanian. Another surprise by the Albanian maritime authorities! "Coorabell" was instructed to berth under the grain loading cranes. The next morning it was impossible to see the decks under all the loose grain, not to mention all the grain that entered the interior through the open hatches. After cleaning the decks, we relaxed in the cockpit with a wine, just as a large vessel on the opposite side of the harbour was loading coal - now black decks - hence we are excited by the present heavy rain.


Where's Coorabell?

Duress Beach

We enjoyed our time in Albania, especially since we did not expect to be cruising there. We only encounted three other yachts while there, so enjoyed isolated anchorages with fresh seafood dinners. The country is still coming to terms after communism which is evident in the old buildings and especially there old cars. Old Mercs are the car of choice. When I enquired as to why, it was explained to me that they are reliable and that there is no one qualified to repair the new models. Cars are also the status symbol in Albanian, so every fifty or so metres is a hand operated car wash.
Our paper work completed, decks reasonably cleaned, we set sail for a day journey to Montenegro. Friends have sailed in the Gulf of Kotor there and have described it as one of the most beautiful fjords in the world, so that's our destination. We intend to spend two weeks there when it will be safe to return to Greece and haul out for the winter.

I hope that you have enjoyed this blog episode and that all are well and healthy back in Australia. Please keep in touch as we love to receive your e mails.


The rain has stopped, so it's time to go ashore and sample the famous finger mussels for lunch.

Love.
Captain Ron and First Mate ( and Greek food critic ) Kathleen.