Greece - land of the unfinished project Part 1

Hi every one,

Greece - land of the unfinished project. The landscape is covered with unfinished projects. Commercial buildings, houses - just abandoned. If its not finished, its for sale!

We are currently berthed in a small remote fishing harbour called Skala on the island of Astipalaia. Its very off the tourist trail with only two French yachts at the quarry. The township is picture post card Greece. White houses over looking the harbour with blue shutters and roofs. Old ladies dressed in black hanging out washing in the alleyways. Several tavernas overlooking the fishing boats. Fishing nets on the pier. Extremely Greek, but wait, were in Greece!



Born to be wild

Coorabell's travels since leaving Turkey have been. Bodrum - Agothonision - Samos - Fournoi - Ikaria -Arki - Lipso - Leros - Kalimnos, Kos and now Astiipalaia.

Sailed south from Leros under good conditions. The meltami, the north west seasonal wind has certainly kicked in, blowing 25 knots almost daily, but keeping the temperature at pleasant 30 degs.

We were expecting to have to go the expensive marina at Kos Town for repairs to our gooseneck on the mast. A washer had disintegrating causing an annoying creaking noise above our bed. I anticipated an expensive repair. However, on entering the quarry at Leros, an English couple beside us had a spare washer, and with some ingenuity, we had it repaired in less than an hour. Beers all round.

We decided to stay in the harbour for a few extra days so anchored out. Each Greek Island has a different feel. This one was an Italian naval base in WW11 and the atmosphere and architecture remain. We hired a trust 50cc motor scooter and explored the island, which was barren but beautiful.
Discovering the "European riviera beach scene " we scootered across  the following day and joined the sun worshipers. Beach lounge chairs, waiters with cocktails and the tiniest bikinis. Lunch at a taverna with tables and chairs in the water.

Living in fishbowl #2

Living in a fishbowl continued

Our view

Commencing in Samos, we have sailed south visiting these islands usually for two nights. Samos to Agothonision,then Fournoi,Ikaria,PatmosArki and now Lipso. Tomorrow, let the wind guide us.

When we are in the larger ports, we rent a 50cc motor scooter. At 8 euros a day it makes sighseeing and provisioning much easier.Its great fun, with no helmets on screaming through the countryside at a top speed of 50 kph!

All has not been relaxing, as we have taken the opportunity at anchorages to spend time bring "Coorabell" back into shape. The decks are now spotless and the stainless steel so polished it hurts your eyes to look at it. The old girl almost looks like new. We have also added lounge chairs to the cockpit and WiFi throughout.

Our observations to date of Greece is that it's bankrupt. People are locking thier houses, unfinished projects and businesses closing. The only business making any money is the locksmith! The other observation is that every Greek was either born in Australia, been to Australia or has a relative in Australia.

Unfortunately our individual time here has been reduced. Kathleen, under pressure, has to return to Sydney for two weeks in late July early August for her mothers 90th birthday and I have been recalled to do a three week patrol commencing Aug 15. Whilst I am away, Kathleen will be aboard in a marina at Paros and do day trips to other islands. We pass each other at Athens airport.

We have taken to the med diet, usually fresh seafood brought from a local fisherman. The Captain has discovered a good Greek white wine at 4.50 euros a two litre bottle, although the crew refuse to drink it, not even in cooking.

The much loved hard floored tender

 

Hoping that all is healthy and hear from you soon.

 

Captain Ron and First Mate Kathleen

21 June 2013

 

 



 

 

 





Living in a fishbowl

Hi everyone,

Berthed in a small fishing quarry on the remote island of Lipso or Lipsi. Surprisingly we have just returned from a "big fat Greek wedding" at a local seaside restaurant. Somehow, we walked into the restaurant for lunch right in the middle of the wedding and the rest is history! It was funny as no one was dressed up, one girl even had a bikini on.

The good crew of "Coorabell" have easily slipped into the relaxed Greek island lifestyle aboard. We have thoughly enjoyed the islands that we have visited so far, meeting with friendly local islanders. The islands have been picturesque with white houses painted blue doors,windows and roofs. Every few kilometres along the shore or perched on a hill is a white church with a blue roof.

Except for provisioning, we have mostly anchored at the more remote islands off the tourist trail. For the last two nights we picked up a mooring in a small bay with only five houses and two tavernas along the foreshore. Lonely Planet stated that only two families live on the island.

All alone

At Fournoi ( see photo ) I was advised by a local fisherman to up anchor and move alongsie into the quarry as it had sufficent depth for us.On entering, we berth alongside at the enterance. Secure, we poured a wine and took in the vista. However, as night fell the two leading navigation lights ( flashing red and green ) came alive, and where only five metres from us. No sleep for us that night.

In the larger ports, we berth mediterrean style of laying out the anchor and going astern into the quarry. This usually means that a taverna is only metres from our stern. With the hot climate, Kath and I spend our time aboard in the cockpit, reading,meals etc. As dusk approaches, families and lovers promenade along the seawall, its like " living in a fishbowl" but fun.

Living in a fishbowl

The positive side is that it usually cost about 5 - 6 euros a night including water and electricity. Very convenient but loss of privacy. ( Judie please note gangplank )

Will contine as do not know how to go to next page!

 

Finally in Greek Waters

Hi guys,

Finally departed Turkey and am now unofficially in Greece. Our time in Turkey was fun, catching up with sailing friends from last year and hopefully having all our on board work completed.

Our delay to Greece was that the alternator to battery charging system was incorrectly fitted in Marmaris and although we had to double back to have it operational, the original technician advised me to ignore the red failure lights! It was not until some weeks later, and numerous e mails to the manufacturer, that another technician in Turgutreis got it working correctly.

In the meantime, we did have the opportunity to explore more of the Turkish coast to destinations that we did not visit last year. Stayed several nights in the expensive Turgutreis marina whilst the work was carried out then sailed west to the townships of Gumuslik and Yalikavak ( try saying them after a few wines ! ). The coastline in this area is interesting, as all the houses on the hillsides are small boxes painted white.All identical for kilometres after kilometres.

The weather is in the mid thirties with this year the north west wind ( melteme ) is blowing so making life aboard pleasant. Sea temperature 23 degs.

As the Greek island of Symi is only eight miles from the Turkish coast, we decided to illegally sail across for a few days and get a taste of the Greek lifestyle. Due to the fact that we had no legal paperwork for being there, decided to anchor in a small bay called Pedi right in front of the taverna.The main port was only a 10 minute bus ride so we spent time exploring the harbour front and shops. Touristy but nice.

 

Kath at Pedi taverna with "Coorabell"

 

Hired a motor scooter for our stay there and explored the island, which has only a few roads and is quite small.On one of these "born to be wild" excursions, we took a side road and after two kilometres come across a beautiful small bay called Marathounda The only real building there was  a restaurant on the beach. Enjoyed a swim in the clear water to get the road dust off before a few beers and a fresh seafood lunch.

 

 

 

 

Marathounda beachside reataurant

 

Riding around the island a great experience, as it is very hilly which was a challenge for the motor scooter at times. No helmets are required, so your senses are filled with pine and wild herbs.

 

With a taste of Greek life, we sailed back to Turgutreis for provisions and diesel ( $2.40/litre ) but more importantly to clear with the port authorities and depart for Greece.However, all was not plain sailing. Along the way we managed to get a plastic bag in our engine's sea water intake causing alot of smoke and some concern to your author. That problem overcome, it was off to the port authorities to clear "Coorabell" and crew from Turkey.Difficulties in the language were quickly over come when I was informed that our cruising permit had expired a month ago and to depart will incur a 127 lire( $85 ) fine. Rather embarrassing for a Customs Officer!

 

After a pleasant three hour motor sail we entered Greece waters and entered a small picturesque bay called Agios Georgios on the island of Agathonisi. After anchoring in clear turquoise water, we sat back wine in hand and took in the view. The hamlet has about twenty houses and two small family run restaurants. We later learnt that only 150 people live on the island.There were two other yachts at anchor, one being from Perth.

finally afloat

Hi guys,

This is my first attempt at writing a blog site, so excuse the mistakes!

Before flying down to the yacht, Kathleen and I spent some time in Turkey playing tourist. This time in Istanbul we stayed on the european side which has a completly different feel from the old quarter. Enjoyed exploying the markets and come across some fantastic cheap seafood restaurants and antique shops.

Enjoyed an afternoon on a local ferry exploring the Bospherous viewing the palaces and mansions. The next day drove down to Gallipoli and spent the afternoon walking around the landing beach and assembly areas. Althought Kath and I are not military inclined people, it was an amazing feeling. The landing beach and assembly area are really small. From the beach you could see the impossible task the anzacs had to defeat the Turks. Walking through the trenches gave you a feeling of what the soldiers would have experienced, at some places the enermy were only eight metres away!

The following day was dissappointing with a visit to the ancient city of Troy - old rocks covered in grass.

Back in Istanbul we flew to the Capadoccia region where the "Star Wars" movies were filmed. Two experiences there stood out, the visit to two underground cities where up to 10,000 people lived for up to six months being eighty metres below the surface. However, the highlight was a dawn hot air balloon flight over this incredible landscape. Pre dawn, we enjoyed a breakfast while the balloon was filled with hot air, then boarded the cane basket with twelve other "aviators". Being afraid of heights, I was hesitant but did not realise we had taken off until I looked down and we were two metres off the ground. For the 1.5 hour flight the pilot controlled our height, but the wind contolled our direction. We cruised along at 8 k/h with eighty three other balloons, a fantastic sight.


eighty three balloons

At our hotel, the booking agent must have made a mistake, and upon arrival we where given the royal treatment before being escorted to the "Royal suite", being the size of a small apartment.I thought it inappropriate to tell the manager that a mistake had taken place.

Returning to Istanbul we flew down to the boatyard. "Coorabell" was scheduled for launching in two days time which give us time to organise tradesmen to carry out pre launching work. In the meantime, we managed to catch up with sailing friends from last year, of course, over a glass or two of wine!

 

After being told that we would be launched at 9am the following day,we finally floated at 6pm the following day and motored around to our berth.It felt good to be back aboard and afloat. After being left abandoned for six months,the boat looked in great condition.Within a day or so,we had the interior "ship shape" and liveable.

 

Next came organising technicians to install all the electronic and navigation equipment that we had brought across. Thank godness, luck was with us and we where remembered from last season and managed to get priority treatment.

 

For the yachties, we installed the latest AIS transciever with an interfaced VHF DSC radio, along with a 160 amp alternator to battery charger which will reduce the use of the engine to charge our batteries by 50%.

 

For those who visited last year, we are proud to announce that we have purchased a new hard floor dinghy with a 10hp outboard-so we can now zip everywhere at speed and comfort.

The sails have been placed back aboard after the winter storage,and yes, a vital small part for the mainsail has dissappeared,so am waiting for a new one to arrive from Istanbul, and then we will provision and start out for Greece via a few weeks on the Turkish west coast.

 

I hope that you have enjoyed my first blog, I promoise that they will improve with time and please send some comments,we would love to hear from you.

 

Regards.

 

Captain Ron and First Mate Kathleen